Cycling the Lower Danube. Euro Velo Route 6. Day 2.

After what came to be a familiar breakfast – omelette with goat’s cheese, tomato, cucumber, white sausage, and strong coffee – we left Kovin in Serbia on a road parallel to the river, but some way inland.  Roads generally reasonable, though sometimes boringly straight, but the occasional pot hole made sure we didn’t just look at the scenery.  The border crossing at Kaluderovo had built up something of a backlog over the officers’ lunchtime – remarkable how quickly they could deal with it when someone in command clicked his fingers.

So, we were in Romania, and stopped  for lunch.Image

One of the features of cycling in Romania we had been warned about was the number of loose dogs, sometimes in packs.  Less than 3km inside the country a pack of eight showed an unhealthy interest, hurtling down a hillside to intercept us. Fortunately my friend likes dogs and talked to them nicely, avoiding injury.  But they weren’t the last to worry us.

We took a short-cut across a spur of hillside (lovely well-engineered road with steady gentle gradients) which rewarded us with wonderful vistas of the Danube.Image

Looking East


And West.

A pizzeria in Moldova Veche also provided accommodation so we left the bikes and ambled round the town.  Many, if not most, of the predominantly single-storey houses had ceramic facings on the walls, something we saw nowhere else.


And we went to look at the river, having spent much of the day at some distance.  Many of the towns we stayed in had a port area beside the river but, with the exception of Lom in Bulgaria, nothing seemed to be happening there in the way of  river transport being loaded or unloaded.  Compared to the Rhine, where the passage of laden barges in both directions is constant, the Danube along this stretch seemed little used for freight.  Most days, though, we saw at least one cruise ship, long and low.


Note: in spite of appearances, we hadn’t yet been rained on.

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